Kolkata - Colours & Bonfires

On arrival in Kolkata - formerly Calcutta - we immediately set off on our guided tour of the city and were surprised at the seeming lack of the usual frenetic traffic.  We were told that it was the eve of a major festival and a bank holiday and, thus, people weren't at work - more about the festival later.

Jain Temple

A hot day combined with travelling for three weeks and an early start meant that we were probably not the most attentive group as we were introduced to some of the City's highlights : a Pareshnath Jain temple, the clay idol workshops, the colonial/Raj buildings and the CoE cathedral.

It was exiting the temple and walking the streets where idols were constructed on a base of wire netting & straw, that we were introduced to the festival of Holi.  This is an ancient festival which goes back to at least the 7th century - it was originally a spring festival of fertility and harvest. However, it also marks some Hindu legends, which provide some of the ingredients for the celebrations.

Street Colours

It is a Hindu festival that welcomes the Spring and celebrates the new life and energy of the season - although it may have religious roots, not much religious activity is involved in its celebration : although we did see, mainly elder ladies making sacrifices at the bonfires.  It is certainly an energetic affair celebratted  with fun and good humour; even the strict rules of separation between castes are said to be abandoned.

Holi is also called 'The Festival of Colours', and people celebrate the festival by smearing each other with paint, and throwing coloured powder and dye around in an atmosphere of great good humour.  Holi is seen by some as the Hindu festival that is nearest in spirit to St. Valentine's Day.

After reaching the cool confines, a couple of us - perversley - headed back into the streets to explore the area.  Like the rest of the City it was very quiet - even the large indoor market was almost silent.  However, there were still people about intent on spreading their colours everywhere.  Many of the roadside stalls were selling various coulourful concoctions and many of the road intersections already had wood piled in the middle in preparation for the evening's celebrations.

Once it became dark, a couple of us again hit the streets and followed the noise of drums.  We came across half-a-dozen drummers parading through the streets and, dutifullly followed them to the large orange glow in the distance.  Here , with no regard for the road surface and passing traffic, a large bonfire blazed and flared.  Mainly elderly ladies made offerings to the fire as a big crowd of locals stood around getting singed by the blaze.  As we walked the streets there were more and more bonfires - every couple of hundred yards - each with attendant drummers as offerings were made before they headed off to the next.

It was a loud, warm and colourful ending to a great three weeks in three contrasting countries.

However, it had a sting in the tale !  Almost back at the hotel and at the last bonfire, I let my guard down and was 'coloured by a local who smeared one of the oil-based green colours on my forehead.  Attempting to rub it off had no effect - except to spread it : so it ended up all across and down into my beard.  How would the airline and the people of the UK react to a green faced monster ?  After liberal application of nail polish remover, tooth paste and soap and after about 40 minutes, I managed to ruin a couple of hotel towels but most of the colour was gone.  I was just left with a slight green shade and skin almost rubbed raw.