In the Mountains

Absolution

We visited the Drodul Chorten, built, in 1945, to commemorate the victory of good over evil. Surrounding the central stupa are 108 Mani Lhakor or prayer wheels. It is said that if you spin all the wheels, all your sins are absolved - of course many of our party had such a burden that they couldn't miss this opportunity.

A stupa (from Sanskrit, literally meaning "heap") is a mound-like structure containing Buddhist relics, typically the remains of Buddha, used by Buddhists as a place of worship. Inside this particular stupa is a complete set of Dorjee Phurba, Kangyur relics (Holy Books) and other religious objects. Much of this historic significance was lost on this philistine but the musical instruments made out of thigh bones were rather singular.

Institute of Tibetology

Just down the road we visited the Institute of Tibetology whose collection of rare books and manuscripts. Here there were, we were told, numerous priceless religious paintings (thangkas), statues and other religious artwork. We then take a morning drive to the other side of the Ranipul valley to the Gompa at Rumtek. The headquarters of the Kagyupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism and was built in the 1960’s as a replica of the Karmarpa’s monastery in Tibet. The religious murals are still being added to today.

We then continued to the little bazaar town of Kalimpong a hill station at about 4,000 ft. It is now known for its educational institutions, many of which were established during the British colonial period. However, it used to be a gateway in the trade between Tibet and India prior to China's annexation of Tibet and the Sino-Indian War.

It straggles along a ridge overlooking River Teesta and, owing to its temperate climate and proximity to popular locations, is a tourist destination in the region. Horticulture is also important and there is a flower market - which we did not visit - notable for its wide array of orchids; nurseries, which export Himalayan grown flower bulbs, tubers and rhizomes. On the surrounding hills there are many Buddhist monasteries including the Tharpa Choling Monastery, which belongs to the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

The hotel - the - Kalimpong Park Hotel - was out of town up a steep hill past a Gurkha memorial. It was another left-over from the days of the Raj - this was another Summer retreat of a plains based princeling : Maharaja of Dinajpur. Out front was a covered terrace ideal for tiffin and behind that, in the old part of the house small cool faded rooms for sitting and drink cold beers.

Silver Oaks Hotel

It was a lively little town spilling down the hill side - starting from a main street with walkways protected by hand rails steeply down to the local markets selling the usual wide array of merchandise : I invested in a little but little griddle for chapatis (to go with the little roller I'd bought in Bangladesh). On the walk back to the hotel there was a succession of us calling into the 'heritage' Silver Oaks Hotel for afternoon tea. This was served by smart white starched waiters in a luxurious reception area dotted with deep armchairs and sofas. On one of our two nights in this little town a few of us partook of dinner here : a slightly surreal experience. We were sat, in a large dinning room with a vaulted room, at a large table with white linen table cloth & napkins and 'silver' cutlery. It would have all been very grand but the expected atmosphere was completely altered by the fact that we were the only diners !

Hindu Temple

Christian Temple

Whilst here we were taken to visit a Hindu temple all painted with garish Yellow and Red - in  its main room there were many large alcoves each with almost life-sized dioramas from Hindu legend. We also visited a Christian church - it was built in the style of a Tibetan Buddhist temple. It was just large simple room with no chairs with an altar enclosure - it was the only Christian establishment I've visited where I've been required, in the Eastern tradition, to remove my shoes. Attached to the church was a residential establishment - run by the Little Sisters of Mercy (Mother Teresa's mob) for ladies with 'learning difficulties'. I was told it appeared to be a well run happy establishment. However, I didn't visit as I felt it would have the feel of a human zoo - it's certainly not an 'attraction' to which I would take visitors to Birmingham (even if there was such an opportunity).